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Installing Sub Woofer
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Nails work too, of course, but they can loosen over time; especially if you're building a removable enclosure that will be going through some abuse. This makes the sealed-box enclosure ideal for many different installs. Then you have to attach one end of the fuse holder to the other end of the ring terminal. This will be a simple rectangular box. Every car is different, so things may vary. If you remember these two rules when you are building your enclosure, and you'll be much happier with it in the long run.
car audio subwoofer boxes
You usually have to line the enclosure with dense flexible foam or fiberglass insulation which will allow you to achieve the level of damping that is necessary for a good-sounding box. What happens if the box is too large? Here is where you will have to grab a generous length of speaker cable through the hole in the rear of the enclosure for obvious reasons. And safety goggles. The sealed box is nothing more than an airtight enclosure whose sole purpose is to enhance the speakers performance.
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STEP BY STEP SPEAKER INSTALLATION
Chances are that if you are installing a new subwoofer box in your car, you will also want to install new stereo speakers to go with it. Putting new speakers into your car is not really that hard. As I have already shown you about wiring your speakers to your subwoofer box, this is the easy part. This just adds to the sound cranking capabilities that your new box can give you. Lets look at this now.
1. Disconnect the Battery. Disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery prevents you from draining your battery and getting stuck without power. It also safeguards you from risking a dangerous short circuit in the electrical system.
2. Parts Preparation is next. Take out all the hardware from the box your speakers came in. If you're installing full-range speakers, you'll typically have the 2 speakers, speaker wire, mounting screws, speed clips, and instructions. Some aftermarket speakers have grilles in them as well; if your speakers do not come with grilles, use your factory grilles and they should be fine.
If you're putting in component speakers, you'll also have the separate tweeters, the tweeter mounting hardware, and crossovers. I would personally recommend that you think of purchasing speaker baffles with your new speakers as well as they improve the sound, especially your bass performance, and help dampen unwanted resonances and vibrations.
If you are installing component speakers, you will also want to buy some new tweeters. You'll want to locate the tweeters above the woofer and "aim" them up at your ears if you want to achieve a realistic soundstage and stereo image. However, you don't want to install the tweeter too far from the woofer either. Ideally, the tweeter should be no more than 1-foot from the woofer to maintain a unified sound field.
3. Taking the Door apart. Depending on where your factory speaker locations are, or where you've decided to custom-mount your speakers, you can now begin to uninstall your old speakers as I mentioned above.
4. Removing the Factory Speaker. The factory speaker is secured to the car door with four Phillips screws. Use your screwdriver and pull the speaker out of the speaker opening. Using a flat head screwdriver, we popped off the factory harness and remove the factory speaker.
5. Prepping the Crossovers. Since most component speaker systems use an external crossover to divide the frequency bandwidths between the tweeter and woofer, I would suggest that you solder the wiring harness to the crossover's input wires.
After soldering the wires together, use a heat gun to melt the heat shrink tubing and protect the connection. Then we connect the crossover to the factory wiring with the quick connect wiring harness.
6. Installing the Woofer. You can adapt the 6"x8" factory speaker opening to accept a 5-1/4" woofer. Use the factory speaker screws to secure the mounting bracket to the factory speaker opening.
Next you should place the baffle in the bracket and screwed in the woofer. If you are installing full-range speakers, reverse your steps and reattach the door panel, and be done.
7. Installing the Tweeters. I like to angle-flush mount the tweeters. Acoustically and aesthetically, this is usually the best way to mount component tweeters. However, angle-flush mounting needs you to drill a hole in your door panel large enough to accommodate the entire tweeter cup.
After figuring out where you want to mount the tweeter and tracing around the tweeter cup with a pencil on the door panel, use a serrated circular blade on your power drill to cut out a hole for the tweeter.
We trimmed the cutout with an exacto blade. Each manufacturer has a different system for securing the tweeter to the mounting surface so check on it.
8. Completing the Installation. Connect the woofer and tweeter leads to the crossover with the attached quick slides. Use the included wire ties to gather excess cable and routed the speaker wires around the window crank. Then drop the door panel back onto the door.
The crossover fits nicely in between the door panel and the door frame, so just it in. Then replace the screws, the door pull cup, and the window crank. Now we have a complete new stereo system that is ready to go!
Chances are that if you are installing a new subwoofer box in your car, you will also want to install new stereo speakers to go with it. Putting new speakers into your car is not really that hard. As I have already shown you about wiring your speakers to your subwoofer box, this is the easy part. This just adds to the sound cranking capabilities that your new box can give you. Lets look at this now.
1. Disconnect the Battery. Disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery prevents you from draining your battery and getting stuck without power. It also safeguards you from risking a dangerous short circuit in the electrical system.
2. Parts Preparation is next. Take out all the hardware from the box your speakers came in. If you're installing full-range speakers, you'll typically have the 2 speakers, speaker wire, mounting screws, speed clips, and instructions. Some aftermarket speakers have grilles in them as well; if your speakers do not come with grilles, use your factory grilles and they should be fine.
If you're putting in component speakers, you'll also have the separate tweeters, the tweeter mounting hardware, and crossovers. I would personally recommend that you think of purchasing speaker baffles with your new speakers as well as they improve the sound, especially your bass performance, and help dampen unwanted resonances and vibrations.
If you are installing component speakers, you will also want to buy some new tweeters. You'll want to locate the tweeters above the woofer and "aim" them up at your ears if you want to achieve a realistic soundstage and stereo image. However, you don't want to install the tweeter too far from the woofer either. Ideally, the tweeter should be no more than 1-foot from the woofer to maintain a unified sound field.
3. Taking the Door apart. Depending on where your factory speaker locations are, or where you've decided to custom-mount your speakers, you can now begin to uninstall your old speakers as I mentioned above.
4. Removing the Factory Speaker. The factory speaker is secured to the car door with four Phillips screws. Use your screwdriver and pull the speaker out of the speaker opening. Using a flat head screwdriver, we popped off the factory harness and remove the factory speaker.
5. Prepping the Crossovers. Since most component speaker systems use an external crossover to divide the frequency bandwidths between the tweeter and woofer, I would suggest that you solder the wiring harness to the crossover's input wires.
After soldering the wires together, use a heat gun to melt the heat shrink tubing and protect the connection. Then we connect the crossover to the factory wiring with the quick connect wiring harness.
6. Installing the Woofer. You can adapt the 6"x8" factory speaker opening to accept a 5-1/4" woofer. Use the factory speaker screws to secure the mounting bracket to the factory speaker opening.
Next you should place the baffle in the bracket and screwed in the woofer. If you are installing full-range speakers, reverse your steps and reattach the door panel, and be done.
7. Installing the Tweeters. I like to angle-flush mount the tweeters. Acoustically and aesthetically, this is usually the best way to mount component tweeters. However, angle-flush mounting needs you to drill a hole in your door panel large enough to accommodate the entire tweeter cup.
After figuring out where you want to mount the tweeter and tracing around the tweeter cup with a pencil on the door panel, use a serrated circular blade on your power drill to cut out a hole for the tweeter.
We trimmed the cutout with an exacto blade. Each manufacturer has a different system for securing the tweeter to the mounting surface so check on it.
8. Completing the Installation. Connect the woofer and tweeter leads to the crossover with the attached quick slides. Use the included wire ties to gather excess cable and routed the speaker wires around the window crank. Then drop the door panel back onto the door.
The crossover fits nicely in between the door panel and the door frame, so just it in. Then replace the screws, the door pull cup, and the window crank. Now we have a complete new stereo system that is ready to go!